DANIEL JAMES THAWLEY

MAKE WAY FOR THE NEW メンズウェアを創り出す、次なる才能。

Text by Dan Thawley
Editor Junsuke Yamasaki

The working class neighbourhoods of post-USSR Moscow seem an unlikely incubator for a fashion prodigy, however that’s exactly where the designer and photographer Gosha Rubchinsky calls home. Having created men’s wear alongside his art projects since 2008, Rubchinsky represents a unique crossroads of today’s youth fused with a broad knowledge of Russian history and it’s rich (albeit brief) pop culture. “I think if you have some things to say to people you can show it through different medias - I like to mix things together for stronger effects,” said the 27-year-old designer. A documentary aesthetic informs both his still photographs and video projects, which often feature friends and acquaintances - predominantly adolescent boys symbolizing a new generation of Muscovites. “When I meet some interesting people, I fall in love with them. And it is always good reason to start something new,” muses Rubchinsky, alluding to the close friendships that often stem from his work and vice versa. After a two-year hiatus, Rubchinsky returned to fashion for Autumn Winter 2012-13, after finding an unexpected devotee in Rei Kawakubo. “I had a pause from fashion because we have problems with production in Russia. Now I’ve started again with the help of Comme des Garçons. Fashion is a part of my art projects and I am happy to do it again with very good partners” said Rubchinsky. Exhibiting his collection at the Comme des Garçons showroom in Paris (marked only by a white door and a Post-It note in Russian), the designer has continued to expand his repertoire for Spring Summer 2013.

The collection charts an abstract perspective of sportswear, heavily grounded in suburban imagery coupled with interpretations of local symbology. “I mixed old school skate pieces with Soviet Olympic sportswear from the 1930’s. There are also themes of my favorite mood club culture from the Russian 90’s” said Rubchinsky, referring perhaps to the cropped, fuzzy mohair sweaters and colour-blocked shrunken t-shirts in shades of bubblegum pink and safety yellow. Long, wide denim shorts and a matching jeans jacket are patched with acid wash panels, and tank tops are digitally printed with video footage from summer sport camps in the Russian forests. “It is a tradition for some fathers to spend time with their children for trainings and sports this way. It looks abstract for me without a specific time period - it’s almost futuristic” explains Rubchinsky.

The simplistic cut and fabrication of garments echoes the makeshift wardrobes of Rubchinsky’s Moscow skate crew, and rely more on subtle motifs and bold graphic statements for impact. A raglan tee and fleece hoodie come emblazoned with his flaming ‘PACCBET’ (‘daybreak’) logo or blocks of cyrillic typography, and slim woolen knits feature a naive depiction of St. George and the Dragon. “I always like to mix many meanings. It is interesting for me to fuse elements from the past and present - some things that are important for my teenage friends now and others that I like from the past. I hope to find something new for the future.” Such genuine artistic intent bodes well for Rubchinsky, ensuring his cult offering will remain a driving force in the youth zeitgeist of today and for tomorrow.

Photography by Kira Bunse
Styling by Lotta Volkova

8 months ago Notes (23)